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Argentina – Quebrada de Humahuaca

After a few recommendations from other travellers I headed for Northern Argentina to Quebrada de Humahuaca. Here small towns are sparsely set within a valley of about 100km's. The people are friendly, life runs in slow motion and the views are great. 

My first stop off was in the town of Tilcara. With good weather, endless walking opportunites and mountain bikes that should of ended their lives a few years ago there was plenty to do. Ended up staying for 4 days . The place fills up with Argentinians from all over the country but other tourists were pretty rare. Only saw about 3 lots of Europeans in the 4 days. Can't work out why, maybe allergic to the dry dust or the truckloads of cacti? 

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Purmamarca was a town I was told to see and at only 26km's down the road I decided to hire a mountain bike to make the trip. My guidebook recommended a bike hire place that was a few hundred meters in the wrong direction so I thought nah, there's another one right on the way. Probably made a bit of a blue there. Got 15km's down the road before, yep, got a flat tyre (huge tyres with no tread, it was if they were just asking to get stabbed). Turned around and started the long walk back but decided to get the old hitch hiking thumb into gear (a higher one than the bike at this time) and walah, a ute stopped and gave me a lift back to town. Appreciated! A quick turn around time at the bike shop resulted in a new bike (new meaning different, not brand spanking) which had dodgy front brakes but really good rear ones. No probs I thought (probably made a bit of a blue there...again). An extra 15km's to get back from where I was before wasn't ideal but I eventually made it to the town I wanted to visit, checked the area, had a good meal then as I left the town the rear brakes failed. Made life hard for the trip back especially at the start with the town situated on a mountain that wound its way down ending at a T-Junction a couple of Km's away. Even trying to take it very slow bought the traditional foot brake into action twice (luckily the hiking boots have enough tread). The rest of the way back was on a single road and when a hill came it was just a matter of gaining speed until the next uphill slowed you down again. Not ideal but ultimately successful. 

After Tilcara I headed an hour up the road to Humahuaca. Trying to hire mountain bikes here seemed a lot tougher than Tilcara. I was hoping to ride to a nearby mountain range called Serrania de Hornocal that consisted of contrasting colors created by multi-colored sediments. Got close to getting a bike but no luck, so instead had to settle on a shared taxi tour. 

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The last town I visited in Quebrada de Humahuaca was Iruya. This was the smallest town I stayed in, situated over 2 hours off the main road on a dusty, bumpy track. The town itself is situated in a gorge surrounded by cliffs and mountains. Not much to do here being so small, a few hikes and the 10 minutes it takes to walk around town. Still I am really happy I went, definitely a beautiful place (and again, only Argentinian tourists).

And then the trip to the Bolivian border.

Brazil – The Pantanal

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The Pantanal, I believe, is the largest freshwater wetlands in the world. Due to this the population is sparse and the animal (and especially birdlife) is abundant. Spent 4 days touring around, had a great lodge, good room mates, good food and saw great things. 

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Now in laidback Paraguay. Hardly a picture been taken for the 5 days here. 2 of those days spent in a river town called Concepcion and now 3 days in the capital Asuncion. On to Argentina tomorrow towards Salta and hopefully a place I haven't explored much (and 2 separate tourists have told me a must see). Quebrada de Humahuaca here I come.